My rabbit does not eat hay


By now we know that the hay It is the main food of rabbits. The hay it wears your teeth, regulates your intestinal transit thanks to its large amount of fiber and provides you with necessary nutrients.

We have to ensure that our rabbit eat at least your body volume daily in hay. Imagine a mound of hay the size of our bunny: for that mound is what you must eat daily (at least) to stay healthy.

If we look at the amount of hay we provide each day and what he eats from that hay, we can get an idea of ​​whether our bunny eats enough. However, if you are here it is probably because you suspect that your rabbit does not eat what is necessary, it wastes a lot and you see yourself throwing a lot of product.

That our rabbit eats hay seems very obvious, but really many domestic rabbits are bad hay eaters. If we detect that our rabbit eats little hay, we must remedy this situation.

Here I speak with great knowledge of cause. Tiki eat hay in conditions it cost me blood and sweat, as who says, but i got it. That's why I want to share this experience and these tricks, because I know that in some cases it is not an easy task.

1. Choose good hay and not always put the same

If we buy from our rabbit a low quality hay, this may be the reason for not eating enough. This is the most basic of the basics, the first thing we must solve if we have not already done so.

Not all hay in the market are the same or like rabbits alike. Sometimes people buy the first hay they find - especially when they have no experience - and believe that the rabbit will eat it: “Total, it's what rabbits eat, isn't it?" It depends.

The first of all is to find good hay, quality hay. Among the wide range that surrounds us, both types and brands, we must always choose:

  • Green and fragrant hay
  • With long fibers of a certain thickness
  • With the minimum dust
  • Better if they have leaves (they are very nutritious and usually like it a lot)
  • With loose strands, not excessively packaged

That said - and already starting from that we buy quality hay - rabbits, like people, have different tastes. The same hay that drives a rabbit can be totally ignored by another, and vice versa.

It is true that, in general, if a hay has very good characteristics the chances that you like it will increase. Leaving each particular case, if the hay is good it is usually popular.

So, should try different hay frequently in order to find those most tasty for our rabbit, since they will be the ones that eat the best and the ones that take the most advantage.

Rabbit feeding needs variety, since eating the same hay can always tire you and cause rejection over time. And it is not only a matter of avoiding monotony, but also of providing a varied and balanced diet of nutrients.

2. Cast the hay little by little

This is one of the tricks that we should also implement as soon as possible if our rabbit is a bad hay eater.

Rabbits that are not very heirs often happen to have left hay left in the henera for many hours. They eat so little by little that in the end the hay loses smell and freshness and stops attracting them.

Our rabbit is thrown into the bag of hay, but then does not eat it with the same greed, to finally stay all day without touching the henera?

It may be for this reason. To avoid this and get it always appealing should not give much hit: We will try to make available the hay in small quantities that he can eat more or less quickly so that it does not accumulate and in the end he totally rejects it.

It may seem a bit heavy to be giving you "little hands" all day, but the smell of fresh hay will attract and encourage you to eat it. We can also control your diet better, since giving small amounts makes it easier to see what you eat.

We will always try to never run out of hay, so we will watch that he eats it and we will throw it a little more when we see that it is running out. Thus we will again awaken your interest with another handful of fresh hay.

3. Use enriched hay

The basic hay, for example: fescue, fleo (“timothy”), Mountain, etc., can come alone or accompanied: hay with rose petals, with pieces of apple or carrot, with marigold, with dandelion, with varied flowers, etc.

If our rabbit is not very heir (and if it is too) we can try to get his attention with enriched hay, made precisely to be more attractive and nutritious. They are equally healthy and very appetizing, as they are accompanied by an extra succulent: flowers, fruit pieces, etc.

4. Change the henera

Sometimes we insist that our rabbit eat the hay in a certain way and he does not like it that way, which means that he will not eat everything he should.

This also happened to me with Tiki. At first I used the henera that came with the cage: a typical plastic henera that hooks on the outside of the bars. I saw him trying to eat there, especially freshly placed hay, but quickly tired. He ate very little and the hay could remain days in the henera, almost without touching.

I noticed that the best place to eat hay was on the ground, where I was free to sniff, dig and choose the fibers I ate without being disturbed by the bars of the cage. However, I tried to put the hay in other supports: in the bag of hay itself, on a plate, in a ball henera and in a ground henera.

I concluded that the floor was his favorite place. In the end the chosen support did not matter: if possible, the hay ended up on the ground and there it was being eaten.

The hay ball gave me a good result at first, it seemed fun, but eventually Tiki stopped using it too. I continued to see that he preferred the floor to any other support. So I gave up and it is on the ground where I put the hay.

By this I do not mean that your rabbit is going to eat on the ground, but keep in mind that each rabbit can have his preferences at the time of eating and that if he doesn't eat the hay the way you put it on, maybe you should try other supports to find the one that is most comfortable for him.

5. Season the base hay with aromatic herbs

If the hay you give your rabbit seems to be heavy, try mix it with aromatic herbs such as thyme, rosemary, marigold, etc. You can find in herbalists.

Also in specialized stores they sell dried flower petals, alfalfa, nettle leaves, dandelion, etc. in small separate bags that you can use to enrich the base hay you give your rabbit.

If you see that the hay you bought from your rabbit does not like it too much or you have one that has lost its smell over time, it is an option to add some plants to give it the taste of enriched hay.

6. Test cubed hay

When I asked my veterinarian Exotic about what I could do to get Tiki to eat more hay, he recommended that I try hay in buckets (if you don't know him, here's an example). He told me that it was not ideal, but that it was an option to assess whether Tiki resisted the traditional format.

The cubed hay may seem inappropriate, especially since at first I said that a good hay comes loose, not tight in the container. However, cubed hay is a different format, is pressed, "concentrated", so it can be useful to provide more hay without looking like it.

Hay like that seems artificial, but nothing further. It is the same hay, rich in fiber, and for some rabbits it can be easier or fun to eat it like that, it's a matter of trying.

Some people advise sprinkle the hay with natural orange juice so that the rabbit is more appetizing. I I have not tried this trick because with the previous ones I have managed to get my rabbit to eat good amounts of hay a day.

However, it is an option. Although I haven't tried it, the people who have done it say that rabbits eat hay better that way. If you want to try this trick I would spray only a little hay, because if it is wet it will spoil very easily and you will have to throw it away.

Attention: if none of this works ...

If none of this works, maybe your rabbit has a health problem. Sometimes, for example, a problem with tooth or tooth growth can make it difficult for the rabbit to eat hay. It is advisable to go to the veterinarian to study the situation.

It is important that you check your rabbit's incisors every week and check that they wear evenly, that there are no deformations or overgrowth. If overgrowth occurs, the discomfort that this causes your rabbit can lead you to eat little hay or stop eating it, so the situation tends to get worse if it is not treated.

If it is the teeth that give problems you will need a veterinary review to find out. Therefore, among other things, it is important that you take your rabbit to the veterinarian periodically.

I hope these tips are useful, have you tried any yet? What results have you obtained? Do you know any other tricks for our rabbits to eat hay well? I await your comments! 😉

The importance of hay for rabbits

As responsible owners, we must strive to know the pillars of rabbit feeding, in this way we ensure that our pet receives the essential nutrients. In the adult stage the rabbit's feed must consist of feed, fruits, vegetables and fresh hay available in unlimited quantities.

Hay is the food resulting from cut, dehydrated and subsequently stored pasture. It is usually a mixture of herbs, clovers, oats, alfalfa, barley and wheat among others. It is an essential food in the diet of rabbits and of great importance for their health, because ensures intestinal mobility, so necessary for this species. Rabbits should have fresh hay available throughout the day.

Hay consumption wear the incisors and prevents abnormalities in the growth of the rabbit's teeth, in addition, it has a lot of fiber, helps the digestive process and prevents alterations of intestinal transit, so it should not surprise us that this food is 75% of the diet of these animals. Therefore, when a rabbit does not want to eat hay, we must give it great importance and try to solve this situation immediately.

Why doesn't a rabbit eat hay?

The lack of hay intake is a severe symptom in rabbits, for that reason, if you have observed that your rabbit does not eat after a few hours, we advise you to go to your emergency veterinarian. Remember that, although you have properly followed the vaccine schedule for rabbits, there are certain pathologies that can cause decreased appetite and that require immediate veterinary attention, let's look at some examples:

  • Coccidiosis
  • Scabies (in the mouth)
  • Malformations in dental pieces
  • Teeth growth
  • Hair balls

Even so, your rabbit may have stopped eating hay for other reasons, for example in the face of a change in the usual brand, its dryness, the presence of hairballs in the rabbit's stomach or other digestive problems. In any case, through different veterinary tests, the specialist will determine what is causing your rabbit not to eat hay and will prescribe the treatment to follow.

What to do if your rabbit does not eat hay?

If no pathological alteration is causing the loss of appetite of your rabbit and its subsequent decrease in hay intake, then it is time that you apply the following tips to restore your food again, the pillar of which should be formed by good quality hay.

Let's see how you can get your rabbit to eat hay again:

  • Change the trademark of the hay and if you consider it necessary you can choose to acquire a flavored hay, since modifying the flavor of it will be easier for your rabbit to eat.
  • Sometimes the rabbit does not eat hay because he obviously prefers feed and it would be a serious mistake for the owners to increase the amount of the feed, on the contrary, reducing the amount of feed will cause your rabbit to ingest more hay.
  • The rabbit eats the hay when it is fresh, for this reason, it is preferable that you give it frequently but in small quantities, since the hay that the rabbit spreads in its cage is hardly ingested again.
  • You can buy hay in tacos or in the form of feed, in this way, it will be much easier for your rabbit to end up ingesting the necessary amount.

Remember that before using these tips it is essential to initial assessment of a veterinarian to rule out any underlying cause that is serious for the animal’s health. Now that you know what to do when a rabbit does not eat hay, you may want to know some fruits and vegetables recommended for rabbits.

If you want to read more articles similar to My rabbit does not eat hay, we recommend that you enter our section on feeding problems.

The importance of proper nutrition

Two of the main health problems in rabbits are the intestinal tract problems and the tooth and tooth problems. Both can be largely avoided by providing our rabbit with proper food.

Rabbits have a very delicate digestive system that can be easily altered by the proliferation of harmful bacteria due to foods high in sugars or an insufficient supply of fiber. Colic and other digestive problems are one of the main causes of death in rabbits in captivity, not in nature. A correct diet, exercise and hydration will help keep the risk of colic at bay.

Teeth and tooth problems are not always obvious. Many rabbits see their teeth deteriorate, both externally and in the roots without giving visible symptoms. Unfortunately many times, when we realize, the problem is advanced and it is difficult to solve. Once again, adequate food, especially the consumption of large quantities of hay, plays a fundamental role in preventing these problems.

Feeding is largely life insurance for our rabbits and a fundamental factor that will determine in many cases their life expectancy and the quality with which they will live the years that are with us.

Help! My rabbit does not eat hay

Well, I have a problem ... since my little one doesn't eat just hay. Blame mine? It may be, since every day I fill a small pot with feed, and always has straw in its cage for me to eat, but what goes.

Can you give me any solution? : _ He has a little tooth as torn, I don't know if it is due to this or not (the veterinarian did not give importance to the tooth), and has the part of the "mentin" / "neck" wet, dirty and smells a little bad and I don't know what it can be.

I took him 2 weeks ago to go away and he told me it was infection. I sent him an antibiotic and gave him the time he told me. In those days everything got better, but since I don't give it to him, he has had a wet hair again (that part alone).
Does anyone know what it can be? Do you know any other bunny that has that?

Do you know how I can make him eat hay? Since it is BASIC for food.
I also give him escarole once in a while and carrot and cauliflower leaves, which he loves, but with that he doesn't "file" his teeth, and I'm afraid there may be the problem.

Can you file your bottom teeth? It is that I have no idea. Will I have to sacrifice it? I'm dying.

Please, I need any advice: __ I am desperate and worried.

INCISO: his cage is made of wood and little iron (wire) and he bites it from time to time, so the front teeth are not bad, but I NEED to eat hay. His looks dry: / Of a yellowish color and such, and I don't know if I have to buy one with aromatic flowers, one more green or what: _

The basis of the diet

The rabbit's diet should consist of three main elements: Hay, fresh food and quality feed. Of them the hay plays a fundamental role for its contribution of fiber and must compose most of the diet of a healthy rabbit. Other elements such as some seeds (nuts, cereals, legumes), which should only be given in very limited quantities, are good options as prizes. Commercial treats sold for rabbits are usually very unhealthy And they are not recommended. Keep in mind that half almonds, a pipe, a piece of walnut or a few flakes of oatmeal a day are suitable, but not more. Seeds in general are not part of the diet of rabbits.

In general we could divide the rabbit feed as follows:

  • 80% hay or fresh grass
  • 20% fresh food (leafy vegetables or wild herbs)
  • Complements: high-end feed and healthy sweets (prizes)

The diet must be as varied as possible, both regarding hay, fresh food and feed. This will ensure us, on the one hand, a variety of necessary nutrients, and on the other, it will make our rabbit's life more interesting, since the variety in the food constitutes one of the pillars of environmental enrichment.

Although it is sometimes recommended not to feed rabbits, the reality is that a balanced diet is very difficult to achieve if we completely eliminate the feed. Most people do not have the proper knowledge in nutrition to combine hay and fresh food in the proportions necessary to avoid food deficiencies. In addition, unfortunately, most of the time rabbits do not receive a wide variety of fresh foods, on the contrary, the daily menu tends to become monotonous and repetitive.

Must be weigh the rabbit once a week. If we see that you are overweight we will reduce or eliminate in this order the most caloric foods: prizes, fruits and feed. Likewise, if the animal is underweight, the amount of feed will be increased or a more nutritious one will be sought, always being careful that the rabbit does not lower its consumption of hay, since hay consumption is a priority due to its effect on rabbit health.

Hay should be the basis of the rabbit's feed. It should always be available in unlimited quantities and we must ensure that the rabbit eats enough. The hay should constitute 70% of the feed of our rabbit. If our rabbit does not eat enough hay, it will be urgent to start a food re-education program before the first health consequences begin to emerge.

The hay is the result of picking plants when they are green (unlike the straw that is collected dry) and drying it for preservation. There are hay from different plants, depending on the plant, the drying and cutting process, the nutritional properties vary quite a lot.

The main hay used as fodder to feed animals are the grass hay and the legume hay.

Grass hay

They are suitable for adult rabbits because they have lower amounts of protein and calcium. Some grass hay available in the market are:

  • Fleo (in English timothy grass)
  • Oats
  • Ductile (in English orchard grass)
  • Fescue
  • Bermuda grass
  • Poa of the meadows
  • Bromine

Leguminous hay

They are more suitable for growing rabbits, pregnant or lactating females and sick or malnourished individuals. In healthy adult rabbits, legume hay should be quite restricted although it is not necessary to eliminate them completely unless there are specific health problems. Some legume hay include:

Hays that are sold unidentified, that is to say, where the plant is not indicated, are usually a mixture of grasses.

Healthy adult rabbits should eat grass hay as the basis of their feeding. Once a week they can be offered legume hay as a supplement to their diet.

There are hay in the market mixed with flowers, dandelion, aromatics or dried fruit that can be interesting for rabbits reluctant to eat hay since they make it more palatable.

The hay should be fresh, green and smell a lot, this will make it more palatable and will help you consume it in more quantity. Dried and yellowish hay retain their amount of fiber but have lost enough nutrients. It should be stored in a place protected from moisture and heat and never in a container that is too tight as it can develop fungi.

As always, the best is the variety, mixing several hay will make the diet more interesting and balanced. Although in the hay the nutrients are not the most abundant but what more contributes is fiber.

Rabbits can eat straw but it doesn't provide them with nutrients, it only contains fiber (lignin) in relevant amounts.

Fresh food

In this section we include perishable plant foods that must be offered at least once a day and remove what has not been consumed in a few hours to avoid fermentation. Fresh foods should be washed and dried, especially in summer (since wet and hot it is easier to ferment, proliferating dangerous bacteria) and should not be taken very cold directly from the refrigerator.

Fresh food includes:

  • Leaf Vegetable Base feed
  • Other vegetables They will be used as a reward or complement to food
  • Fruit. They will be used as a reward or complement to food
  • Aromatic herbs. They can be used as part of the base feed or as a reward

Leafy vegetables

We will choose especially dark colored leafy vegetables which contain more nutrients. Normally yellow leaves are poor in vitamins and minerals. For this and because it is associated with digestive problems, we will avoid the yellow leaves of lettuce and, especially, iceberg type lettuce.

Some leafy vegetables contain high levels of oxalates. Its continuous consumption for long periods of time can lead to kidney problems. For this reason, its consumption should not be abused, however, they are vegetables rich in other necessary nutrients and should not be eliminated from the diet, only control that they are not offered in excess.

  • Swiss chard 1
  • Chicory
  • Artichoke
  • Celery leaves
  • Watercress
  • Cabbage
  • Bok Choy
  • Borage
  • Canñіnigos
  • Chinese cabbage
  • Kale
  • Brussels sprouts
  • Endive
  • Endive
  • Spinach 1
  • Sprouts 1
  • Grelos (turnip greens)
  • Cauliflower leaves
  • Fennel (leaves)
  • Cucumber leaves
  • Beet leaves 1
  • Carrot leaves
  • Radicchio
  • Cabbage
  • Arugula
  • Cauliflower leaves
  • Wheat grass
  • Cat grass
  • Lettuce (dark colored leaves)
  • Mustard leaves 1
  • Radish leaves 1
  • Raspberry leaves

Aromatic: Aromatic herbs should be given in small quantities.

  • Basil
  • Coriander
  • Dill
  • Estragon
  • Peppermint
  • Fennel
  • Lemongrass
  • Chamomile
  • Balm
  • Mint
  • Oregano
  • Parsley 1
  • Rosemary
  • Sage
  • Thyme

1 Leaf vegetables with a high content of oxic acid

Other vegetables (mainly for prizes and diet supplements)

  • Carrot
  • BrГіcoli (leaves and stems)
  • Edible flowers (roses, nasturtiums, pansies, hibiscus)
  • Pepper
  • Green beans (pod only, removing the seeds)
  • Brussels sprouts
  • Cucumber
  • Zucchini
  • Tomato (Never the plant or the leaves)

Forbidden Vegetables

The following vegetables never They should be given:

  • Onion, scallion or similar
  • Leek
  • Potato or other tubers.
  • Garlic, garlic
  • Beet
  • Avocado
  • Olive

Avoid the flower part of cauliflower or broccoli.

Vegetables that cause gas in humans do not have to cause them in rabbits. In rabbits the gases are mainly caused by vegetables with high starch content and sugars that alter the pH of the blind. (cereals, seeds, legumes, carrots, beets and other roots with a high sugar content) and fruit. When introducing a new vegetable we will do it following the Rule of the three days. If we observe that this vegetable produces gases or other intestinal problems we will remove it from the rabbit's diet.

The fruit must be given in very limited quantities. One tablespoon a day per kilo of rabbit weight if there are no weight problems would be an adequate amount. Fruit is a good option as a prize. A small portion of fruit a couple of times a day can help us check our rabbit's appetite and detect possible health problems.

You can give dried fruit but, being more concentrated, the amounts should be a third compared to fresh fruit.

If the fruit is of ecological cultivation it can be given with skin (except the banana), well washed, since the external part is usually rich in nutrients. If the use of pesticides is suspected, it is better to peel them.

• Apricot
• Cranberry
• Cherry
• Plum
• Raspberry
• Strawberry
• Kiwi
• Mango
• Apple
• Peach
• Melón
• Nectarine
• Papaya
• Pear
• PiГ ± a
• Banana (at most one slice 0,5 cm a day)
• SandГa

We must choose a I think high end. In conventional stores it is often difficult to find good quality feed, since there are more customers looking for a cheap feed rather than a good feed. In many occasions to get a good feed for rabbits we will have to go to online stores or veterinary clinics.

To find a good feed we must always look feed with composition label and ingredients, you never think in bulk without labeling. Feed should not have different elements from which the rabbit can choose but must be homogeneous.

Feed Composition

To know the quality of a feed we must see the composition. You should have a high percentage of fiber, above 20, a fat level as low as possible and not have too much protein. Calcium should be around 0.6 for healthy adult rabbits and up to 1% for growing rabbits and lactating or pregnant females. A higher level of protein is suitable for young or old rabbits.

Reference values:
CompositionAdult rabbitsGazapos and lactating females
Crude fibergreater than 20%greater than 20%

Feed for rabbits should never contain no ingredient of animal origin. The order in which they appear on the label indicates which ingredients appear in greater quantity. The first ingredient is the one that appears in greater quantity with respect to the rest and so on. The first ingredients to be listed therefore define the main characteristics of the feed.

The base of the feed must be forage plants like fleo or alfalfa. The main ingredient should never be cereals, flours or undefined elements such as “subproducts of plant origin”

Awards (sweets)

We will use the prizes to encourage desired behaviors such as making needs on the tray or to teach them things, such as coming when we call them. They can also be used as part of a diet to gain weight.

In general we will use foods that are not part of the rabbit's basic diet but that can be given in small quantities

Download here the poster Chuches for rabbits

Gazapos up to 8 weeks

  • Breastmilk: The rabbits should be with the mother until the 8 weeks that is when weaning occurs.
  • Unlimited Alfalfa: It gives them extra calcium and more protein to grow without problems.
  • I think unlimited: Both for the mother and for the rabbits.

Young rabbits from 8 weeks to 6 months

  • Alfalfa + Hay: Reduce alfalfa and mix it with hay, while increasing the amount of hay in your diet. At the end of the process they should eat a minimum of their volume in hay (about 150 grams of hay for a 1.5 kg rabbit).
  • I think unlimited: Controlling your weight, in case you have a tendency to gain weight. To find out, we will ask the veterinarian what his ideal weight is, and once he reaches that weight we will be aware of whether he continues to gain weight or not, in the event that he exceeds the weight, his diet will have to be changed to the 6-month diet. 1 year A specific feed should be used for young rabbits.
  • Fresh food: 100 gr of vegetables and other fresh foods per kilo of weight, see section “ fresh food”. Enter the vegetables according to the document the Rule of the three days.

Young rabbits from 6 months to 1 year

  • Unlimited hay: At a minimum you should eat its volume in hay (about 150 gr of hay for a 1.5 kg rabbit).
  • I think: Reduce the amount of feed while increasing the intake of fresh food. At the end of the process you should eat 100 gr of fresh food per kilo of weight + 30 gr of feed per kilo of weight. But to control if we are doing well, it is essential to have a kitchen scale and weigh the rabbit once a week to control the imperceptible increases or decreases of weight to the naked eye. For example: That a rabbit of 1.5 kilos drops 100 grams, it is as if a person of 65 lost more than 4 kilos of blow, and that is a lot for such a small animal. 100 grams are very difficult to detect by eye, so a kitchen scale is essential.
  • Fresh food: 100 gr of vegetables and other fresh foods per kilo of weight, see section “ fresh food”

Adult rabbits between 1 and 5 years

  • Unlimited hay: At a minimum you should eat its volume in hay (about 150 gr of hay for a 1.5 kg rabbit).
  • Fresh food: 100 gr of vegetables and other fresh foods per kilo of weight, see section “ fresh food”.
  • I think: 30 gr of feed per kilo of weight

Rabbits older than 5 years.

  • Unlimited hay: At a minimum you should eat its volume in hay (about 150 gr of hay for a 1.5 kg rabbit).
  • Alfalfa: If your calcium levels are good, add some alfalfa with the hay.
  • Fresh food: 100 gr of vegetables and other fresh foods per kilo of weight, see section “ fresh food”
  • I think: A estas edades algunos conejos empiezan a perder peso, si este es el caso, se recomienda pienso ilimitado para ellos. En conejos mayores de 5 aГ±os se debe realizar una analГ­tica completa anual para detectar posibles problemas de salud. Si en la analГ­tica se detecta algГєn problema de calcio, de riГ±Гіn o de hГ­gado el veterinario puede determinar eliminar el pienso de la dieta.

Dietas bajas en calcio

Cuando existen problemas de riГ±Гіn, sedimentos en la orina o cГЎlculos, el veterinario puede recomendar una dieta baja en calcio.

En este caso se debe evitar la alfalfa y los henos de cualquier leguminosa asГ­ como los piensos basados en alfalfa. El contenido de calcio del pienso debe ser de 0,6 % como mГЎximo.
Se evitarГЎn tambiГ©n verduras con alto contenido en calcio o que contengan ГЎcido oxГЎlico:

100 grCalcio(mg)Comentarios
Hojas de Zanahoria1940
Diente de leГіn187
Perejil138Alto contenido ГЎcido oxГЎlico
Hojas de mostaza103Alto contenido ГЎcido oxГЎlico
Spinach99Alto contenido ГЎcido oxГЎlico
Acelgas51Alto contenido ГЎcido oxГЎlico

En algunos casos, si el agua del grifo tiene mucha cal puede ser recomendable un agua embotellada baja en minerales.

Las piedras de minerales no son nunca recomendables, pero pueden resultar especialmente peligrosas en caso de necesitar una dieta baja en calcio.